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Valstar

義大利最具代表性的飛行外套

     近幾年,已是每位義大利男士衣櫥中必備單品的Valstarino麂皮飛行外套,在國際市場上的知名度越來越高,除了經典男裝的興起,以及對傳統工藝的重視之外,使其如此熱門的主要原因,無非是Valstarino本身能與任何風格做搭配的多變性。

     Valstar於1935年將美國空軍的A1飛行外套做「改良」,進而創造了經典的麂皮飛行外套——Valstarino,在二戰結束之後,伴隨著美國與歐洲軍人的退役,大量的二手軍服湧入男裝市場,為了讓一般民眾能更加容易地接受這些深具機能性的服飾,許多廠商開始將一些不必要的設計移除,空軍皮外套正是其中之一,除了將原本厚實的牛皮、馬皮換成柔軟的麂皮,更將方便穿脫的拉鍊換成較為優雅的鈕扣,至此,麂皮飛行外套開始於歐洲地區廣泛地流行起來。這段「去正式化」的過程催生了現今男裝中大部分的休閒單品,T恤與卡其褲皆是從這滿是衝突的時期中誕生的,Valstarino也正好見證了這段歷史。

     THE 'VALSTARINO' JACKET, OR BLOUSON, HAS LONG BEEN A STAPLE OF THE ITALIAN WARDROBE. IN RECENT YEARS, HOWEVER, IT HAS BECOME INCREASINGLY POPULAR AND REFERENCED WORLDWIDE. REASONS FOR THIS POPULARITY MUST INCLUDE THE RISE OF INTEREST IN TRADITIONAL CLOTHING, AND THE FOCUS ON AUTHENTIC CRAFTS (THE VALSTARINO IS STILL ENTIRELY MADE IN ITALY). BUT JUST AS POWERFUL, I WOULD SUGGEST, IS THE SHEER VERSATILITY OF THE JACKET AND HOW WELL IT FITS INTO A MODERN WARDROBE.

     THE VALSTARINO WAS CREATED BY VALSTAR IN 1935, INSPIRED BY THE A1 FLIGHT JACKET ISSUED TO AMERICAN PILOTS. AFTER THE END OF THE SECOND WORLD WAR, SOLDIERS IN THE US AND EUROPE ADAPTED PIECES OF MILITARY CLOTHING FOR CIVILIAN USE - INCLUDING LEATHER JACKETS - AND THE VALSTARINO BECAME WIDELY WORN. ARGUABLY, THIS INFORMALISING (TO COIN A PHRASE) GAVE BIRTH TO MOST OF THE CASUAL CONVENTIONS WE HAVE IN MENSWEAR TODAY. EVERYTHING FROM THE T-SHIRT TO THE CHINO CAME OUT OF THIS PERIOD OF CONFLICT. THE VALSTARINO IS PART OF A BROADER SOCIAL CHANGE.

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