Luca Avitabile | OAK ROOM
Luca Avitabile

祖孫三代的拿坡里襯衫​

     1930年代,定期來訪的法國、英國及西班牙貴族對拿坡里這座城市與當地人文留下了深遠的影響,無庸置疑地使其成為當時義大利最具代表性的風尚、奢侈品與工藝之都,這些來自世界各地、眼光極佳且有著高標準的顧客們,趨之若鶩地搶購著由拿坡里工匠所製的優質產品。

     1927年,Luca Avitabile的祖母Emilia Calabi在拿坡里訂製襯衫工坊——Camiceria Kiurli開始了她作為裁縫的職業生涯,在二十多年的辛勤工作之後,Emilia決定在1948年將她的夢想化為現實,在中央車站附近成立了自己的裁縫工坊,她的丈夫Alfredo負責銷售,而她則負責產品的縫製,然而,由於二戰的影響,拿坡里的經濟仍在恢復之中,這使得當時的一切都變得更加艱難。

     1960年代,Luca Avitabile的父親接管了他母親的工坊,並將店面從拿坡里遷至San Giorgio a Cremano——一個充滿襯衫裁縫與領帶工坊的小鎮,Luca Avitabile的童年便是在他父親那滿是縫紉機與布料的工坊內度過的,這樣的經歷使Luca很快發現自己想要跟隨祖母的腳步,成為一名優秀的襯衫裁縫,在知名的Secoli Institute of Milan研讀紡織工藝、有著數年男性襯衫打版經驗的他,開始在拿坡里為顧客製作訂製襯衫,並成功將業務擴展至米蘭與倫敦,至此,他的夢想終於實現。     

     As a result of a unique series of crowned heads and courts – French, English and Spanish – that left an indelible mark on the city and its people, back in the thirties Naples was the undisputed capital of Italian elegance, luxury and craftsmanship. Discerning and demanding customers from all over the world would commission the most luxurious creations from Neapolitan artisans.

     It was 1927 and Emilia had been working as a seamstress at Camiceria Kiurli, a bespoke shirtmaker in Naples. After more than 20 years of hard work, in 1948 she realised her dream to set up her own tailoring workshop, near to the central train station. My grandfather Alfredo did the selling and Emilia the sewing. Nonetheless, it was a time of hardship, with Naples still recovering from World War II.

     In the sixties my father joined the family business and relocated the workshop from Naples to San Giorgio a Cremano, a bustling village full of family-run shirtmakers and tiemakers. I grew up surrounded by sewing machines and fabrics; my father's workshop was shrouded in a magical atmosphere and soon I knew that I wanted to follow in my grandmother's footsteps. After several years studying textile technology and then pattern making for men's shirts at Secoli Institute of Milan, I began to cut the first bespoke shirts for customers in Naples – then in Milan and now also in London. My own dream came true.

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